Mathematical models of wave refraction, and diffraction by island breakwaters

This report describes two mathematical models which may be used for the prediction of wave effects by an island breakwater in varying depth. A brief description is give of the derivation of two models. Their results were compared for a test case of an island breakwater in uniform depth with those from a mathematical model which would normally be used in this situation. Having established that the two models give a reasonable representation of wave diffraction by an island breakwater in uniform depth, a series of tests were then carried out for the varying depth. This allowed a qualitative assessment to be made of the varying depth. This allowed a qualitative assessment to be made of the performance of the models in the varying depth case. The report concludes by summarising the capabilities and limitations of each of the models, and by making suggestions for their future development.