The nearshore profile model - a computational model of wave and current interaction in nearshore regions

Southgate, H.N. (1988) The nearshore profile model - a computational model of wave and current interaction in nearshore regions. Technical Report. Hydraulics Research Wallingford.

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Abstract

A computational model, known as the Nearshore Profile Model, has been developed at Hydraulics Research Ltd for predicting wave and current condition in nearshore regions. This report describes the theory and computational techniques used by the model, and compares its predictions against laboratory and field data. The model uses the approximation of a straight coastline with parallel depth contours, and determines wave and current conditions at fried points along a shore normal line. The theory of wave and current motion is based on general mass, energy and momentum balance equations which are applicable both inside and outside the surf zone, and includes some new approaches to the solutions of these equations. An important features is the modelling of tidal currents as well as wave-induced currents, with full interaction between the two types of current and the waves. Because the model considers one horizontal dimension only, the computational speed is greatly increased compared with 2-DH models. The model is thus capable of processing large quantities of input wave and tidal data, making it suitable for the investigation of long-term processes on beaches and in nearshore regions. The model is designed to be used in conjunction with an appropriate sediment transport routine for problems concerned with longshore movement of sediment.

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