The effect of grain size distribution and bimodal sea-states on coarse beach sediment dynamics

In this work we investigated the effect of gravel beach profile response under wave spectra characterised by swell and wind wave periods in various combinations. This was done by running an extensive series of 2D physical model tests. It was found that even a small percentage of wave energy within the low frequency range triggers a significant landward displacement of the beach crest. Based on this 2D physical model study, a new parametric model, Shingle-B, was derived and an online tool was developed and made available.