The nearshore profile model incorporating wave spectra

A computational model for determining wave and current conditions in nearshore regions, known as the Nearshore Profile Model, has been extended to incorporate wave spectra. The theory of spectral wave transformation used by the model is described, and comparisons between the spectral and monochromatic versions of the model are presented. It is concluded that in most cases where input wave spectra are adequately known, they should be used in preference to the equivalent monochromatic wave.