Wave prediction in deep water and at the coastline - a review of recent techniques of predicting, analysing and modelling wave conditions

Southgate, H.N. (1987) Wave prediction in deep water and at the coastline - a review of recent techniques of predicting, analysing and modelling wave conditions. Technical Report. Hydraulics Research Wallingford.

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Abstract

This report is a review of methods of prediction, analysis and modelling of wave conditions in deep water and at inshore locations. It is intended for coastal engineers as an outline of the methods currently available for predicting wave conditions, which emphasis on the most recent techniques. The report is in two parts. Part 1 contains a description of wave generation at sea and techniques for analysing measured wave data and predicting wave conditions from wind records. Part 2 contains a description of the shallow-water processes affecting waves as they travel from deep water to the coasts, together with a review of the computational techniques for modelling these wave transformations.

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